RIPP SUPERCHARGERS
FIRST THREAD ABOUT THEIR NEW JK 3.8L KIT
July 2007
Summary
Hello, we
are new Vendors to the Jeepforum, however not to the JK, here is our in house
tester. Its a 2007 JK Unlimited X that we have prototyped our newest
Supercharger Drive System (SDS) on. Our SDS kits are built around rugged
Vortech V2 S-trim Centrifugal Superchargers and are backed by a one-year
warranty.
Driving the JK with the SDS in place is like driving a JK with a larger engine, right now we are producing 214whp at 6psi through a completely stock exhaust system including, manifolds, cats and muffler. Considering that a Naturally Aspirated (N/A) is only 127whp on the upgraded 35" tires and wheels the 214whp and 238lb/ft of torque are a welcomed mod. We are now working with Borla to further enhance the exhaust and squeeze some more WHP from it. It is also noteworthy that the JK is running completely Check Engine Light free and we've tested on 89 through 93 Octane gas without problem (you can use 88 but it feels best on 89). Gas mileage has gone up 4 point in the city and 6-9 on the highway (depending how heavy a foot you have.
Installation is moderately easy and is doable in 6-8 hours with a basic mechanics toolbox, and we offer a live tech line during normal business hours, please refer to our web site for more info. Most importantly our supporting electronics come pre-programmed and do not need any out side tuning, so install away DIY'rs....
RIPPMODS 2007 JK Unlimited
Driving the JK with the SDS in place is like driving a JK with a larger engine, right now we are producing 214whp at 6psi through a completely stock exhaust system including, manifolds, cats and muffler. Considering that a Naturally Aspirated (N/A) is only 127whp on the upgraded 35" tires and wheels the 214whp and 238lb/ft of torque are a welcomed mod. We are now working with Borla to further enhance the exhaust and squeeze some more WHP from it. It is also noteworthy that the JK is running completely Check Engine Light free and we've tested on 89 through 93 Octane gas without problem (you can use 88 but it feels best on 89). Gas mileage has gone up 4 point in the city and 6-9 on the highway (depending how heavy a foot you have.
Installation is moderately easy and is doable in 6-8 hours with a basic mechanics toolbox, and we offer a live tech line during normal business hours, please refer to our web site for more info. Most importantly our supporting electronics come pre-programmed and do not need any out side tuning, so install away DIY'rs....
RIPPMODS 2007 JK Unlimited
- RIPP Stage 1 Supercharger
- 214whp on 35" Micky T's
- 4" Lift
- Fabricated Bumpers
- 9500 Winch
- Thermal imaging camera Front
- Wide View camera front
- wide view camera rear
- DVD System throughout
The
entry level pricing is set at $4499.95 which includes.
• RIPP SDS (Supercharge Drive System)
• Vortech V2 S Trim Supercharger with both quiet and polished options
• RIPP Black Box (Preprogrammed fuel and timing controller)
• RIPP 2.5 Bar MAP sensor
• RC Engineering injectors/clips
• Aluminum Mandrel piping
• By pass valve
• 4 Ply silicon couplers
• Stainless clamps
• No weld oil return fitting
• Oil feed and return lines
• Battery relocation kit
• Air filter
• Belt
• Idler pulleys
• Fully illustrated instructions
• One year warranty
• RIPP SDS (Supercharge Drive System)
• Vortech V2 S Trim Supercharger with both quiet and polished options
• RIPP Black Box (Preprogrammed fuel and timing controller)
• RIPP 2.5 Bar MAP sensor
• RC Engineering injectors/clips
• Aluminum Mandrel piping
• By pass valve
• 4 Ply silicon couplers
• Stainless clamps
• No weld oil return fitting
• Oil feed and return lines
• Battery relocation kit
• Air filter
• Belt
• Idler pulleys
• Fully illustrated instructions
• One year warranty
There
is a lot of attention to detail, for example our oil return system doesn’t
require you to weld a bung or hammer a hole. Instead it’s a simple drill, drop
into place and tighten. You must remove the oil pan. Our battery tray doesn’t require you to drill any
additional holes in your chassis, instead we use preexisting holes, and it
mounts solidly into place. Lastly, you don’t have to run larger injectors or a
fuel pump, we use a simple wet plenum system, so there are no cold start or
idle issues to have to deal with. Additionally, our system is likely to pass emissions,
as we are not re-flashing the ECU making it impossible to detect by outside
scanners. So trips to the dealer are not nightmares, as we all know the
Chrysler Corporation is a big fan of “upgrading” the program in their cars. If
you have a re-flash with larger injectors its likely that you will not be able
to drive home as the stock programming in the ECU will no longer be calibrated
for the after market fuel system.
Current
pricing is set at $4499.95 (subject to change) stay tuned we are finalizing
manufacturing and looking at special entry level pricing.
Thank you for giving us the opportunity, our systems are due on the shelves in early September (eight weeks), in fact we have finalized lead times this week, which is why we joined and decided to share our system with the community. We recently had two very successful public viewings. 1) Bloomsburg 4X4 Jamboree, in Bloomsburg PA, where we gained the endorsement of Rock Krawler Suspensions and Mickey Thompson Tires, both of which have ordered 1 of the 10 pre-productions kits available. Furthermore the sister kit in already running is Rough Country Suspension’s Corporate Vehicle, who is enjoying the added power and has reported like results in both fuel economy and drivability. 2) The second showing was in York PA, with the PA Jeep Club, which was a great time. There we both Quadratec and 4WD.com took extensive interest in having the system fully explained to them in detail resulting is email dialogue. Additionally Rock Krawler Suspensions invited us to display at their corporate booth and once again drove our tester with the system installed reassuring their need for the system. We are using the factory 4:10 gearing that comes in the Wrangler Unlimited X.
Intercooler? Great question, the short and simple answer is YES… however the beauty of Vortech blowers (as opposed to our competition) is they really don’t need intercooling until you surpass 8-9psi. In testing at 6psi our Air Intake Temp’s (AIT) are only around 100-120 degree’s fully heated or “hot lapped”. It’s important to keep in mind that we are advertising our Hot Lapped WHP not a false Cold number that can only be achieved once. Respectively, using a Front Mount Intercooler (FMI) is utterly useless in a rock crawling and/or trail riding as the small units can easily get heat saturated and actually work against you. Instead RIPP developed a digitally controlled Wet Plenum Intercooler (RIPP Boost Cooler), using a Water/Methanol injection system. The system essentially sprays a mist of the mixture (available locally to you in any reputable auto parts store) right into the boost stream and the combination then cools the air, adds density and suppresses knock in addition to adding octane. As a result no we have had zero issues with over heating over the 6000 miles we have driven our testing with the SDS installed.
Thank you for giving us the opportunity, our systems are due on the shelves in early September (eight weeks), in fact we have finalized lead times this week, which is why we joined and decided to share our system with the community. We recently had two very successful public viewings. 1) Bloomsburg 4X4 Jamboree, in Bloomsburg PA, where we gained the endorsement of Rock Krawler Suspensions and Mickey Thompson Tires, both of which have ordered 1 of the 10 pre-productions kits available. Furthermore the sister kit in already running is Rough Country Suspension’s Corporate Vehicle, who is enjoying the added power and has reported like results in both fuel economy and drivability. 2) The second showing was in York PA, with the PA Jeep Club, which was a great time. There we both Quadratec and 4WD.com took extensive interest in having the system fully explained to them in detail resulting is email dialogue. Additionally Rock Krawler Suspensions invited us to display at their corporate booth and once again drove our tester with the system installed reassuring their need for the system. We are using the factory 4:10 gearing that comes in the Wrangler Unlimited X.
Intercooler? Great question, the short and simple answer is YES… however the beauty of Vortech blowers (as opposed to our competition) is they really don’t need intercooling until you surpass 8-9psi. In testing at 6psi our Air Intake Temp’s (AIT) are only around 100-120 degree’s fully heated or “hot lapped”. It’s important to keep in mind that we are advertising our Hot Lapped WHP not a false Cold number that can only be achieved once. Respectively, using a Front Mount Intercooler (FMI) is utterly useless in a rock crawling and/or trail riding as the small units can easily get heat saturated and actually work against you. Instead RIPP developed a digitally controlled Wet Plenum Intercooler (RIPP Boost Cooler), using a Water/Methanol injection system. The system essentially sprays a mist of the mixture (available locally to you in any reputable auto parts store) right into the boost stream and the combination then cools the air, adds density and suppresses knock in addition to adding octane. As a result no we have had zero issues with over heating over the 6000 miles we have driven our testing with the SDS installed.
Another
great question, that’s the easiest to answer actually in one term,
Volumetric Efficiency (VE)! Where as VE over RPM = Psi (Boost)
That is the ability for the engine to move air through the combustion cycle in one revolution. In Naturally Aspirated N/A form the engine physically has to suck air through the 2.5in hole in the air box, though the paper air filter, in the piping, past the throttle body, down to the valves and then hit the pistons. As a result you press the gas harder to make the whole process happen faster….. Thus the lousy gas mileage you’re currently experiencing, because you’re displacing air with fuel.
With the blower in place the whole air supply-over-revolution changes! The blower is spinning freely and constantly delivering air to the piston in a ready and able form, making more use of the stock fuel to begin with. Additionally as soon as you put the engine under load (press the gas), the blower delivers 1-2psi freeing up all that rotational mass immediately and becoming more efficient. All that is done without the addition of our supplemental fuel, in fact it’s not until 3-4psi that our system even starts the trigger the 2 additional 650cc injectors at a minimal rate. So we are maximizing the fuel that’s there already, thus picking up city and highway gas mileage. Secondly, because you have free’d up the rotation mass, you find yourself using less of the throttle, a quarter throttle will suffice with the SDS in place as opposed to half or three quarter in N/A form.
Keep in mind RIPP’s tuning process works with the stock injectors and ECU, we are not installing larger primary injectors and then re-flashing the ECU like our competitors would have you do. It’s a natural to think that with larger primary injectors your gas mileage will suffer, in our case it’s more efficient. In the past 6000 miles of testing we have experienced on average 14city and 16-18highway, that’s on 35” tires and making trips to and from Virginia, PA and New Jersey, from New York City.
Volumetric Efficiency (VE)! Where as VE over RPM = Psi (Boost)
That is the ability for the engine to move air through the combustion cycle in one revolution. In Naturally Aspirated N/A form the engine physically has to suck air through the 2.5in hole in the air box, though the paper air filter, in the piping, past the throttle body, down to the valves and then hit the pistons. As a result you press the gas harder to make the whole process happen faster….. Thus the lousy gas mileage you’re currently experiencing, because you’re displacing air with fuel.
With the blower in place the whole air supply-over-revolution changes! The blower is spinning freely and constantly delivering air to the piston in a ready and able form, making more use of the stock fuel to begin with. Additionally as soon as you put the engine under load (press the gas), the blower delivers 1-2psi freeing up all that rotational mass immediately and becoming more efficient. All that is done without the addition of our supplemental fuel, in fact it’s not until 3-4psi that our system even starts the trigger the 2 additional 650cc injectors at a minimal rate. So we are maximizing the fuel that’s there already, thus picking up city and highway gas mileage. Secondly, because you have free’d up the rotation mass, you find yourself using less of the throttle, a quarter throttle will suffice with the SDS in place as opposed to half or three quarter in N/A form.
Keep in mind RIPP’s tuning process works with the stock injectors and ECU, we are not installing larger primary injectors and then re-flashing the ECU like our competitors would have you do. It’s a natural to think that with larger primary injectors your gas mileage will suffer, in our case it’s more efficient. In the past 6000 miles of testing we have experienced on average 14city and 16-18highway, that’s on 35” tires and making trips to and from Virginia, PA and New Jersey, from New York City.
I
have permission from my boss to discuss any topic you feel should be covered
including older systems. The Jeep is not a Hyundai, more importantly the Jeeps
electronics are nowhere near the Hyundai's complicated state of confusion.
Before bringing Jeep system to market RIPP has tested this system extensively
for over 6000 miles on its own vehicle and backed that data up with a second
vehicle and not just any vehicle a major manufactures corporate car Rough
Country Suspensions. With that being said RIPP still supports the Hyundai
system and has not stopped upgrading the current product line. We went on to
have Rock Krawler Suspensions test drive it over two weekends and they found it
to be spot on as well, please feel free to contact either one of those
companies randomly and at your discretion.
To bring everyone else who may be curious as to what BigJerm is regarding, RIPP manufactures several other systems, one of which is the 03-05 Hyundai Tiburon. In the past RIPP would be contacted by a group and asked if we would create a system for them. We would suggest getting 10 buyers together and we would be willing to develop a system. The Tiburon system was one of those systems, we were glad to make it, in fact the system still sells strong (250 kits later), however like any manufacture we are subjected to scrutiny, and some end users have chosen to run the system outside of our parameters. The Hyundai community has found that changing the combination of intake piping (which uses a MAS air sensor) will result in more HP, and we endorse that. In fact we have just recently installed 3 upgraded pipe set on three separate vehicles and found similar results, so we’ve actually put into motion an upgrade selling through a third party vendor.
Lastly, we would like to note that over the past Three years RIPP has added an in house DYNO and strong talent including an in house electronics engineer. He personally oversees and further develops our electronics packages and makes sure they are primed and ready for market, so much so that they are passing more stringent drive cycles. In the past RIPP would have to out-source this task, such was the case with the Hyundai and as a result a weaker package would be boxed. Overall we have many happy clients still running the Hyundai system who have clocked over 60k on their SDS kits running on our system right out of the box.
To bring everyone else who may be curious as to what BigJerm is regarding, RIPP manufactures several other systems, one of which is the 03-05 Hyundai Tiburon. In the past RIPP would be contacted by a group and asked if we would create a system for them. We would suggest getting 10 buyers together and we would be willing to develop a system. The Tiburon system was one of those systems, we were glad to make it, in fact the system still sells strong (250 kits later), however like any manufacture we are subjected to scrutiny, and some end users have chosen to run the system outside of our parameters. The Hyundai community has found that changing the combination of intake piping (which uses a MAS air sensor) will result in more HP, and we endorse that. In fact we have just recently installed 3 upgraded pipe set on three separate vehicles and found similar results, so we’ve actually put into motion an upgrade selling through a third party vendor.
Lastly, we would like to note that over the past Three years RIPP has added an in house DYNO and strong talent including an in house electronics engineer. He personally oversees and further develops our electronics packages and makes sure they are primed and ready for market, so much so that they are passing more stringent drive cycles. In the past RIPP would have to out-source this task, such was the case with the Hyundai and as a result a weaker package would be boxed. Overall we have many happy clients still running the Hyundai system who have clocked over 60k on their SDS kits running on our system right out of the box.
Keep
in mind you can use 88-93 octane fuel with our system and are not locked into
high-test for reasons of detonation, as our electronics are working with the
ECU. As with any forced induction system (FI) you will experience better fuel
economy with higher octane because it has a better burn rate.
Secondly we can provide the 35" figures city/highway.
Normal City Driving on 35" wheels and tires:
12-13 or 264 Miles to the tank full
Normal Highway Driving on 35" wheels and tires:
16-17 or 352 miles to the tank full
This is on 93 Octane and no Boost cooler system, through a stock exhaust system and usually loaded with work gear, as the truck serves a dual purpose.
Secondly we can provide the 35" figures city/highway.
Normal City Driving on 35" wheels and tires:
12-13 or 264 Miles to the tank full
Normal Highway Driving on 35" wheels and tires:
16-17 or 352 miles to the tank full
This is on 93 Octane and no Boost cooler system, through a stock exhaust system and usually loaded with work gear, as the truck serves a dual purpose.
Thank
you for giving us the opportunity to do our thing, over the last two years RIPP
has worked on reinventing itself as a Supercharger Manufacturer. The JK kit
along with our other new kits (06-07 Eclipse GT/GS and Lancer Ralliart)
represents the best our company has ever offered. In fact we are in a stage
where we as a company can do more in house testing than ever before. Making
sure that the system works as advertised and helping to meet your expectations.
We look forward to providing knowledgeable information and working with the
other vendors to provide solid advice and support.
These
are a great questions, and again easy enough to handle. The caliber of these questions
is coming from an educated consumer as opposed to the Sport Compact Market that
we are use to. These are great technical question and I enjoy fielding them,
thank you.
The Boost Cooler runs a pre-mixed solution, in fact it is Prestone De-Icer, a window washing fluid available in the colder states that does not have any soap in it. In fact you use very little of it, as it only goes on under boost, so the temp outside really has nothing to do with. Over the course of a month (1000 miles) you’ll find you will add washer fluid only once, and since we use the factory window washing reservoir, it’s easy to keep tabs on its level. Its costs about $3 a gallon and it usually available anywhere, if not RIPP can provide a case for about $40.00.
Emission testing is easy; we’ve run ours through NYC emissions and passed no problem. In our state they strap the car down on an emission testing Dyno with a probe in the tail pipe and duplicate traffic scenarios, speeding up from 0 to 60 down to 35 and holding it at 20-25mph for 5mins. Lastly, if you’re worried about passing in your state, the SDS comes off the car in about 30mins, remember we are not running larger primary injectors, so all you really had to do is:
• Remove the boost pipes (6 clamps)
• Remove the oil lines (4 clamps and one small line plug)
• Remove the SDS (4 bolts)
• Install battery back in OEM location (3 bolts)
• Cap one vacuum line
• Reinstall air box in OEM location
• Done
The electronics can all stay as they are not being triggered unless there is boost present and so can the SDS idler pulley bracket.
The Boost Cooler runs a pre-mixed solution, in fact it is Prestone De-Icer, a window washing fluid available in the colder states that does not have any soap in it. In fact you use very little of it, as it only goes on under boost, so the temp outside really has nothing to do with. Over the course of a month (1000 miles) you’ll find you will add washer fluid only once, and since we use the factory window washing reservoir, it’s easy to keep tabs on its level. Its costs about $3 a gallon and it usually available anywhere, if not RIPP can provide a case for about $40.00.
Emission testing is easy; we’ve run ours through NYC emissions and passed no problem. In our state they strap the car down on an emission testing Dyno with a probe in the tail pipe and duplicate traffic scenarios, speeding up from 0 to 60 down to 35 and holding it at 20-25mph for 5mins. Lastly, if you’re worried about passing in your state, the SDS comes off the car in about 30mins, remember we are not running larger primary injectors, so all you really had to do is:
• Remove the boost pipes (6 clamps)
• Remove the oil lines (4 clamps and one small line plug)
• Remove the SDS (4 bolts)
• Install battery back in OEM location (3 bolts)
• Cap one vacuum line
• Reinstall air box in OEM location
• Done
The electronics can all stay as they are not being triggered unless there is boost present and so can the SDS idler pulley bracket.
We agree, however as previously mentioned, our system is
currently being priced, and quality is quality, so to the effect we can move
the price we will, but we are looking to bring a level of superiority and
support that merits pricing.
Volumetrically, we are only adding 600cfm to the engine, to
keep things in perspective, the Mitsu we work with is a non-forged engine as
well and with our program we can run up to 9psi without engine failure for an
extended period of time. Since a Vortech supercharger has a linear boost curve,
meaning it progresses smoothly up in the RPM band, the engine is never shocked
with boost. Instead it is very easy to drive the car out of boost using only
part throttle.
Additionally since there is no intercooler to fill, there is no lag time either, so it is easy to drive harder under power conditions because the boost curve is so easily built. Also as for mentioned RIPP has passed stringent NYC emission’s testing, which means there are no “rich” spots under heavy acceleration, meaning there is very little chance of washing down the cylinders which leads to premature engine failure. Lastly since we are not over riding any of the OEM safety features, like Knock or air temp sensors, the ECU is still running as a fail safe and therefore if anything should be out of parameter it will simply revert to “Limp home mode”, which means it will dumb the power curve down until it can be inspected by an pro. So RIPP has done everything it can do to make sure your engine is continually running with in a safe range, but time will tell.
Additionally since there is no intercooler to fill, there is no lag time either, so it is easy to drive harder under power conditions because the boost curve is so easily built. Also as for mentioned RIPP has passed stringent NYC emission’s testing, which means there are no “rich” spots under heavy acceleration, meaning there is very little chance of washing down the cylinders which leads to premature engine failure. Lastly since we are not over riding any of the OEM safety features, like Knock or air temp sensors, the ECU is still running as a fail safe and therefore if anything should be out of parameter it will simply revert to “Limp home mode”, which means it will dumb the power curve down until it can be inspected by an pro. So RIPP has done everything it can do to make sure your engine is continually running with in a safe range, but time will tell.
There is ZERO outside maintenance to be had with our system,
in fact besides changing the oil every 2500-3000 miles or running a synthetic,
should you chose, maintenance is standard. RIPP provides you the option of
installing one step colder range spark plugs, which are available right from
our store or tech line, or you can buy them locally. The ones RIPP offers are
iridium and last much longer than stock. Additionally, the Vortech has its own
filter system in the oiling injector so there is additional safety there as
well.
What about NO Intercooler? Well, there are two ways to look at this, your assuming your
running an intercooler on our base system. Let’s put things in perspective, the
Stage 1 System is set at a maximum boost setting of 6psi, which translates to
220whp on a stock exhaust system. We all know that just a cat back will add an
easy 15whp on an engine this size. So lest call our system 235whp. Additionally
we are running all four catalytic converters, and that can easily be exchanged
for a cross over pipe with two high flow cats which in our Mitsu 3.8 produces
an additional 35whp, so potentially we can be looking at a 280-290whp kit with
no intercooler (and no need to worry).
What about if you run out of Meth/washer fluid? The short answer is NO, there is very little risk involved should you run out of Meth.
Our intercooler is used to keep HP consistent, whereas when boost becomes to hot it becomes less useful. So you’ll experience “boost” but less power. Our intercooler (at 6psi) is used mostly to keep air temps down and to keep air density up. Also a Vortech Blower is larger than conventional blowers, which means it needs less RPM to “scoop” up air and funnel it through the snail, which means there is less heat and more volume. Lastly keep in mind, the SDS system comes with a supplemental injector set up, which in itself acts as a wet intercooler by nature.
In closing, should we decide to step up the boost to 10psi, then it will be more critical to keep an eye on fluid levels. However in the six years we’ve been selling and supporting the Boost Cooler and SDS combo, it is best summed up this way. If you have an investment of this nature (Jeep) and then you further extend yourself and purchase our set up, aren’t you going to keep an eye on it or show it off, and in this day and age, who drives without window washing fluid? It’s basic and simple maintenance, even if it’s only a convenience. So the effect that it will contribute to power, we are sure you’re going to keep an eye on it, because it’s your responsibility to., but at 6psi no worries!
What about if you run out of Meth/washer fluid? The short answer is NO, there is very little risk involved should you run out of Meth.
Our intercooler is used to keep HP consistent, whereas when boost becomes to hot it becomes less useful. So you’ll experience “boost” but less power. Our intercooler (at 6psi) is used mostly to keep air temps down and to keep air density up. Also a Vortech Blower is larger than conventional blowers, which means it needs less RPM to “scoop” up air and funnel it through the snail, which means there is less heat and more volume. Lastly keep in mind, the SDS system comes with a supplemental injector set up, which in itself acts as a wet intercooler by nature.
In closing, should we decide to step up the boost to 10psi, then it will be more critical to keep an eye on fluid levels. However in the six years we’ve been selling and supporting the Boost Cooler and SDS combo, it is best summed up this way. If you have an investment of this nature (Jeep) and then you further extend yourself and purchase our set up, aren’t you going to keep an eye on it or show it off, and in this day and age, who drives without window washing fluid? It’s basic and simple maintenance, even if it’s only a convenience. So the effect that it will contribute to power, we are sure you’re going to keep an eye on it, because it’s your responsibility to., but at 6psi no worries!
Yea, we know its bold statement to make “more power and
better gas mileage” but its just a matter of Volumetrics, the SDS delivers more
readily available air making more use of the fuel that’s there. Translating
into more power, more throttle response and better MPG when driven “normally”. Now if you step in it all the time,
that’s a different story… then MPG goes to hell… lol.
Well, there is no official word on California yet, but I
heard that according to our resent street logs the air fuels, installation and
exhaust quality all comply with CARB. It’s a matter of the politics behind that
now. I know our boss is looking into it, and I’ve over heard discussion with
the engineer regarding air/fuel quality, but there is no official position yet.
If I hear anything or if they brief me I will post what I’m allowed to.
We are finalizing the price and "early bird”. We may be able to offer you a deal with
installation...
If you or anyone is interested in this type of “early brd” deal, please let us know, we are a full fledged speed and installation shop as well as a SDS manufacture.
If you or anyone is interested in this type of “early brd” deal, please let us know, we are a full fledged speed and installation shop as well as a SDS manufacture.
Warranty Question. We recently took our Jeep back to the purchasing dealer, and
in fact they absolutely loved it, literally every aspect. In fact here is a
video they asked us to shoot on site and completely spontaneously, its very
informative and insightful. The person doing the video/interview in the GM at
Major World Jeep/Chrysler in Queen NY. The person being put on the spot, is our
electronics Engineer, he does all the driving and data logging on the Jeep and
has been driving it for 6000-7000 miles on the SDS kit. That day he went to the
dealer to do a dealer "flash" of the ECU and see if there was nay
effect on the RIPP Black Box tuning. Instead we had the entire dealership out
in the service department mulling over our system, the result was the video,
more importantly the Service Manager could find any log or run issue even after
driving it hard, he was very impressed.
Altitude does not affect the blowers performance at all, in fact it will only work to help you. As previously explained the Vortech Supercharger builds boost based on Volumetric Efficiency's (VE).... where as VE over RPM = Boost (psi). So while your climbing the mountain at altitude, the blower will always build boost as long as there is RPM, even if the air is thinner.
Additionally, your stock ECU in OEM form has a built in Barometer that is able to swing the tune around for more fuel or aggressive timing. Since our electronics work with the stock ECU instead of tuning into it, the added boost from the SDS will feel seamless. This is do mostly to the linear boost curve where boost is available from low RPM's consistently through the RPM band, so if you know your going to climb all you simply have to do is drive in the engine stock power band.
In other words you won't have to worry about "finding" the power band, it will always be there at your disposal.
Altitude does not affect the blowers performance at all, in fact it will only work to help you. As previously explained the Vortech Supercharger builds boost based on Volumetric Efficiency's (VE).... where as VE over RPM = Boost (psi). So while your climbing the mountain at altitude, the blower will always build boost as long as there is RPM, even if the air is thinner.
Additionally, your stock ECU in OEM form has a built in Barometer that is able to swing the tune around for more fuel or aggressive timing. Since our electronics work with the stock ECU instead of tuning into it, the added boost from the SDS will feel seamless. This is do mostly to the linear boost curve where boost is available from low RPM's consistently through the RPM band, so if you know your going to climb all you simply have to do is drive in the engine stock power band.
In other words you won't have to worry about "finding" the power band, it will always be there at your disposal.
DYNO sheets, I’ll get them up and show the before and after
WHP so you can see the gains.
The centrifugal SC we choose to use has very little lag because we use a larger blower that would be needed for the application. So boost is available from a very low RPM and only gets stronger with RPM. In fact this engine doesn’t really act like a small or larger engine it has a pretty even power curve. A roots style charger will really suffer up top whereas the Vortech flourishes.
Towards the end you can see the jeep take off and just thrust away from the line.
The centrifugal SC we choose to use has very little lag because we use a larger blower that would be needed for the application. So boost is available from a very low RPM and only gets stronger with RPM. In fact this engine doesn’t really act like a small or larger engine it has a pretty even power curve. A roots style charger will really suffer up top whereas the Vortech flourishes.
Towards the end you can see the jeep take off and just thrust away from the line.
Washer Fluid Injection. We’ve had calls come in with our Mitsu crowd saying they
were running “blue” regular window washing fluid and nothing happened. Keep in
mind we are pressurizing the fluid up from 100 to150psi so it really gets
atomized pretty thin and burns off. At that point it turns into water injection
instead of Meth/water injection. Furthermore most regular window washing fluid
has a good amount on alcohol included.
Towing Capacity.
In terms of total weight, no, those are more chassis/brake capacity
specific. However it will make towing the recommended weight a lot easier as
the added power is a welcome over the entire RPM band. Vortech SC are known to
go well over 100k miles and customers with our SDS have seen over 100k as well,
so long distance is no problem. Towing jet skies shouldn’t be an issue for the
Jeep or the SC, and the elevation isn’t really as issue as the truck adapts to
barometric change and tunes accordingly.
The boost will suffer a bit but still deliver power at that elevation.
Our recommendation would be to go intercooled with our Boost cooler kit so-as
to add both octane and detonation suppression. It will also help to go with
premium fuel with trips like that, as you make more use of the boost with a
denser fuel.
What if the Supercharger fails? Should there be an issue with the blower, the engine can still be used as stock by simply removing the belt from the SDS and routing it back to stock. NOTHING will need to be removed or reconfigured for this step, and it will take less than five minutes and one half-inch ratchet.
What if the Supercharger fails? Should there be an issue with the blower, the engine can still be used as stock by simply removing the belt from the SDS and routing it back to stock. NOTHING will need to be removed or reconfigured for this step, and it will take less than five minutes and one half-inch ratchet.
We will be doing a special introductory pricing soon, we
should have that up in the next few weeks. If your interested in pre-production kits please call our
sales line and reference the post and they will put you through to the right
person. A deposit will be required. 4 of the 10 pre-production kits are spoken
for at this time with deposits, NOT INCLUDING THE corporate sponsorship Jeeps*.
You misinterpreted the intercooler system.
The wet intercooler uses the factory window washing fluid reservoir, there is no mileage, per-say that you have to "add fluid", its a matter of use. Our intercooler is only triggered under boost. You can drive the Jeep around out of boost all day and never trigger the intercooler once. Secondly in stage one form (which is what being shown) is only 5psi so you don't even need an intercooler.
The boost cooler is $399.95 with mounting brackets, most dealers would install a kit of this caliber, but it’s at their discretion. We offer a one year warranty only, but funny you should mention that as in a meeting there was talk of an extended warranty. No official word as of yet.
The wet intercooler uses the factory window washing fluid reservoir, there is no mileage, per-say that you have to "add fluid", its a matter of use. Our intercooler is only triggered under boost. You can drive the Jeep around out of boost all day and never trigger the intercooler once. Secondly in stage one form (which is what being shown) is only 5psi so you don't even need an intercooler.
The boost cooler is $399.95 with mounting brackets, most dealers would install a kit of this caliber, but it’s at their discretion. We offer a one year warranty only, but funny you should mention that as in a meeting there was talk of an extended warranty. No official word as of yet.
We are working on further developing the power with an
exhaust system and high flow cat set up, then the real numbers begin.
When we originally developed the SDS system back in 2000 for
the Mitsubishi crowd, we tested four different Intercooler (IC) systems:
• Air to air
• Water to air
• CO2 to air
• Wet plenum
When you consider that each of the first three act more like “air brakes” to the boost, whereas you will have to spin the blower up to 9psi to get 5psi usable, to an extent we’ve found them to be more counterproductive than useful. By way of example, your creating more crank load to develop more RPM to produce more boost, but the real issue is that once the units get heat saturated they are completely counter productive and not cooling the boost. So now you are running 9psi with hot and useless air, which potentially is a very dangerous situation, especially when your wheeling.
The wet plenum added the most HP per dollar, it is easy to install and maintain and is the most cost effective. For instance, it consistently:
• Cools the air
• Adds octane
• Adds detonation suppression
• Adds air density
• Lowers Exhaust Gas Temps (EGT)
• Keeps the intake track spotless
RIPP Modifications has run a prominent speed shop for fourteen years and we build high HP cars on a weekly/monthly basis, most guys running high boost run our Boost Cooler kit in addition to their large air to air IC’s. Also keep in mind, when you trail riding or wheeling your typically going slow. An Air to air will get heat saturated at slow speeds, and a Water-to-air is only as good as the heat exchanger. Which then falls under the same flaw. If there is no movement of air, there is no heat exchanging going on. Consider going through mud, and how easily the front mount will get clogged making it difficult to transfer heat. The Boost Cooler will spray only when there is boost, and it’s unaffected by the circumstances around it. It can be 10 below or 120, once the Meth/water is atomized it cools the boost, adds the octane and suppresses detonation. Additionally our system is digitally controlled so it will ONLY add fluid when it’s needed, regardless of altitude or speed.
• Air to air
• Water to air
• CO2 to air
• Wet plenum
When you consider that each of the first three act more like “air brakes” to the boost, whereas you will have to spin the blower up to 9psi to get 5psi usable, to an extent we’ve found them to be more counterproductive than useful. By way of example, your creating more crank load to develop more RPM to produce more boost, but the real issue is that once the units get heat saturated they are completely counter productive and not cooling the boost. So now you are running 9psi with hot and useless air, which potentially is a very dangerous situation, especially when your wheeling.
The wet plenum added the most HP per dollar, it is easy to install and maintain and is the most cost effective. For instance, it consistently:
• Cools the air
• Adds octane
• Adds detonation suppression
• Adds air density
• Lowers Exhaust Gas Temps (EGT)
• Keeps the intake track spotless
RIPP Modifications has run a prominent speed shop for fourteen years and we build high HP cars on a weekly/monthly basis, most guys running high boost run our Boost Cooler kit in addition to their large air to air IC’s. Also keep in mind, when you trail riding or wheeling your typically going slow. An Air to air will get heat saturated at slow speeds, and a Water-to-air is only as good as the heat exchanger. Which then falls under the same flaw. If there is no movement of air, there is no heat exchanging going on. Consider going through mud, and how easily the front mount will get clogged making it difficult to transfer heat. The Boost Cooler will spray only when there is boost, and it’s unaffected by the circumstances around it. It can be 10 below or 120, once the Meth/water is atomized it cools the boost, adds the octane and suppresses detonation. Additionally our system is digitally controlled so it will ONLY add fluid when it’s needed, regardless of altitude or speed.
We find our selves getting 1000-1500 miles between
fill ups. When you consider how
long you’re actually in boost for and how much of that boost needs cooling it’s
a very small amount at a time.
Take into consideration getting on the highway from 35mph, you step into the gas and roll the RPM out to red line, what was that 15secs? How long of that was above 3-4psi 12secs tops? Now take into consideration we are atomizing at 100-130psi, so your using drops not quarter tank full’s…. most people have the misconception that the spray pattern is like the window washing nozzle, its a very fine or soft high pressure mist, somewhat like NOS.
Take into consideration getting on the highway from 35mph, you step into the gas and roll the RPM out to red line, what was that 15secs? How long of that was above 3-4psi 12secs tops? Now take into consideration we are atomizing at 100-130psi, so your using drops not quarter tank full’s…. most people have the misconception that the spray pattern is like the window washing nozzle, its a very fine or soft high pressure mist, somewhat like NOS.
This is a DYNO comparison at the wheels of stock
Wheel HP (WHP) and boosted HP on Stock wheels and tires. As you can see the there are two lines
a Red one which represents High HP and a Blue one which is stock. The very first thing you’ll notice is
the place where the HP actually starts, the Blue line starts higher in the RPM
band because the transmission HAD to shift to move the mass. Whereas the SDS
powered line starts nice and low in the RPM band because there is more power
over the entire band.
Also you’ll notice that the Blue line barely tops out at 144whp before dropping off to about 130whp. So in stock form the more you rev it out the less HP you’re making. But with the Blower in place you actually make MORE HP all the way through the RPM band, making the entire experience much more gratifying, giving the impression of a larger engine rather than boosted engine. This is important to keep in mind if you share the vehicle with a spouse, rest assure they will have no idea the rig is boosted because the power is seamless, it’s as though it was always there.
Consider that at 60 to 75mph you have very little passing power, as apposed to the boosted graph where you have plenty of go behind the move you’re trying to make. This all comes into play on daily basis, while making the off-road experience much more gratifying, because you know exactly where the power is as opposed to rocking or reving it out. Things only get worse with the 35’s, while with the SDS in place, it’s like stock.
We’ve read somewhere that it bothered someone to see our in house tester dirty and full of mud, to them we say…. Jeeps get dirty, our clients get them dirty, it would be in irresponsible of us NOT to get our Jeep dirty so we can manage our customer’s expectations. We can assure you that in the mud or on the trail, the SDS powered Jeep is much more usable and fun to drive…than stock... dirty or clean.
Lastly and most notably is through this graph, it is also easy to comprehend that your gas mileage goes up, simply because you are making more power earlier in the RPM band, so naturally your stepping into the throttle much less, over all conserving fuel.
Also you’ll notice that the Blue line barely tops out at 144whp before dropping off to about 130whp. So in stock form the more you rev it out the less HP you’re making. But with the Blower in place you actually make MORE HP all the way through the RPM band, making the entire experience much more gratifying, giving the impression of a larger engine rather than boosted engine. This is important to keep in mind if you share the vehicle with a spouse, rest assure they will have no idea the rig is boosted because the power is seamless, it’s as though it was always there.
Consider that at 60 to 75mph you have very little passing power, as apposed to the boosted graph where you have plenty of go behind the move you’re trying to make. This all comes into play on daily basis, while making the off-road experience much more gratifying, because you know exactly where the power is as opposed to rocking or reving it out. Things only get worse with the 35’s, while with the SDS in place, it’s like stock.
We’ve read somewhere that it bothered someone to see our in house tester dirty and full of mud, to them we say…. Jeeps get dirty, our clients get them dirty, it would be in irresponsible of us NOT to get our Jeep dirty so we can manage our customer’s expectations. We can assure you that in the mud or on the trail, the SDS powered Jeep is much more usable and fun to drive…than stock... dirty or clean.
Lastly and most notably is through this graph, it is also easy to comprehend that your gas mileage goes up, simply because you are making more power earlier in the RPM band, so naturally your stepping into the throttle much less, over all conserving fuel.
Just To Update, we Now Have Over 16,000 Miles On Our
Kit. We Will Be Releasing It In Early 08. Enjoy Your Holidays.
Actually we've competed over 23000 miles of both on
and off road testing on the same vehicle. We've used our rig in the mud, snow,
sand and to tow a light trailer. The SC has come in handy every single time.
NOTE: THE RPM range is differnt because the NA set up didn't have enough WHP to keep the trans in third gear for true comparison testing. So you see we had to bring the wheel sped up higher to get a true comparison.
With the blower in place you can see WHP comes in earlier right from very low RPM and completely eclipses the NA format throughout. The lower line is the NA peaking out at a sad 127whp while with the SDS in place it peaks out around 220whp(and now we're up to 228whp with the addition of our intercooler). You can plainly see there is MORE usable HP throughout the entire range. The most amazing part of this WHP is that it’s being tested through the entirely stock exhaust system including cats and manifolds.
You have to keep in mind a Centrifugal SC is always spinning, delivering air even as little as one pound under load. In our experience when rock climbing typically you set the transfer case to low and lock the diff’s. That means your RPM’s are usually matched to the engines peak torque you’re using mid RPM range which in the sweetest of spot for a Centrifugal SC blower to be. Unlike roots blowers which become very rubber-bandy or trigger happy which become easy to "over drive the climb" slip or get stuck (we've heard that this has been a major complaint with jeep owners in the past) Instead the Vortech running at mid range RPM is completely predictable and manageable The boost rather than feeling like a bullet being fired, comes on effortlessly which makes the engine feel as though its of a larger displacement. And because the blower is so larger it needs less RPM and parasitic drag (crank hp lose) to operate. It also eliminates the need for an intercooler because it delivers cooler boosted air than any other blower out there.
On the Highway there is absolutely no question that you will get better gas mileage with the Vortech as it is in every way a more efficient pump. Keep in mind our logic is different from the other kits available. We DO NOT install larger injectors and a fuel pump; instead we use a supplemental injection system that delivers extra fuel only when needed. There are several major benefits to this
1) We don’t have to manipulate any of the factory driving maps including cold start in traffic or part throttle. This allows the stock ECU to trim for fuel economy when in part throttle and just cruising. This also means there is a ZERO check engine light environment and most likely pass emissions in any state (though not carb legal yet)
2) You can still use regular grade fuel during day to day use of the vehicle and add mid to hi octane when planning to have some fun.
3) AND most importantly, should something go wrong with the blower or a belt should break you can drive home on the stock injectors because the tune won’t be effected in any way. This is especially important for those of you who venture far from home, that last place you want to be stuck is in the middle of nowhere with nowhere to go. Since 90% of our tuning remains stock all you do is simply slip the belt off and drive home stock with no worries.
The air filter being mounted on the firewall is arguably the cleanest and safest place for it. It’s away from water mud and dust. Also shortly after our Supercharger Drive System (SDS) is launched we will be launching a snorkel as well. That will simply sneak through the fender and up the passenger side A pillar. In our opinion for the true on/off road enthusiast our system is the easiest to install run and use, and ours is the only one that offers the added no-hassle safety benefits and promotes better than stock gas mileage even when using regular grade fuel.
Our DYNO is
an Eddy current load baring dyno.
Which means we can tune throughout the entire RPM band duplicating real
world driving conditions. Including driving up hill. The dyno sheet we posted
were printed in MPH but we tested at RPM.... we simply printed the wrong
range.... As soon as our operator is back I'll have him print the right graph.
When we do
our testing for the supplemental fuel system, we data log each cylinders
temperature. We put a probe on each exhaust manifold and in this case, all
cylinders are 18-20 degrees of each other. Not to mention the 23k we put on it.
We design and manufacture our own engine management system, the RIPP Black Box. Our system actually integrates itself right into he factory ECU hooking up to:
We design and manufacture our own engine management system, the RIPP Black Box. Our system actually integrates itself right into he factory ECU hooking up to:
- TPS
- MAP sensor
- Knock sensor
- O2 sensors
- Cranks sensor
In doing so we are working along side the factory ECU and manipulating only what the ECU see's, rather that muscle our way through like our competitors. Traditionally you'll piggy back into an ECU and "tell" in what to do. In the JEEP's case we've seen it fight its way back to stock....
Our system includes a 2.5bar MAP sensor. It will pull timing for various reasons accordingly and in some cases advance it to make it make responsive during daily part throttle out of boost conditions.
Lastly we are not using simple injectors with our system. Our atomizers are multi-port injectors, which are being pulsed as boost is being built progressively, this cuts down waste and the risk of puddling.
When we designed this kit, we went with the ‘keep it
simple stupid’ approach. Install
what you need. The whole kit goes in, in 6-8 hours easy and comes out just as
quick, if not quicker. And engine swap is tedious and takes away from the “newness”
of the vehicle and 230whp this feel right. As soon as we install headers and a cat back we all know its
going to jump another 35-50whp so that puts it right at around 280ish.. that’s
a nice truck that’s flexible and can get some decent gas mileage.
We do not use a Unichip to tune our system, we use
our own electronics.
Our supercharger system is rear mounted to keep it away from dust and water, and our system runs on regular thru premium fuel.
Our supercharger system is rear mounted to keep it away from dust and water, and our system runs on regular thru premium fuel.
The JK and its 3.8l is not the TJ with the
beloved 4.0! They are different animals all together and require similar but
not the same attention. Whereas the 4.0 did a great job moving a light truck
with gears... the 3.8 does not... and requires more than standard "bolts
ons".
So as it goes, the 3.21 and 3.73 leave a lot to be desired - however that’s not a product of the SC it’s a product of the rotating mass… we already know there is a 35% drive train loss in factory form.
An example would be our stock ‘08 Rubicon only produced 133whp on the stock tires and 4:10’s and them 121with 33x13.5”. With the blower is produces 227whp and 231lb/ft of torque.
Another example would be our original tester, an ‘07 only produced 118whp on the 35’s and stock gears and 122 with the 5:13 in NA form. So again with the blower you get all the WHP back and gain fuel mileage in a considerable rate. As averages are coming in from end users, we seem to be anywhere from 2-13 more MPG depending on that end users set up and driving habits. My personals average, not instant so we are taking tanks of gas, AC on - in my 08 Rubi on 33/4.10’s with the hard top on all the time is 12-14 around town and 15-18 highway at 70mph. The variables are weight in truck hills, traffic and average speed… with the charger its all to easy to pass and drive in the right lane.
By comparison the JK now on 37’s gets 14-15 around town and 16-20 highway at 65mph and 2k RPM… he’s a lot more conditioned than I am. One user is getting 10mpg cruising at 80mph and through the hills of Cali into LA… there’s only so much the SC can do.
I don't feel I'm in the position to answer the HEMI swap question, however from clients we've spoken to, they've said- cons are inspection with OBD2 port is not compliant, weight with respect to spring rate needs to be address's and some have mentioned the HP per Dollar left a bit to be desired.
So as it goes, the 3.21 and 3.73 leave a lot to be desired - however that’s not a product of the SC it’s a product of the rotating mass… we already know there is a 35% drive train loss in factory form.
An example would be our stock ‘08 Rubicon only produced 133whp on the stock tires and 4:10’s and them 121with 33x13.5”. With the blower is produces 227whp and 231lb/ft of torque.
Another example would be our original tester, an ‘07 only produced 118whp on the 35’s and stock gears and 122 with the 5:13 in NA form. So again with the blower you get all the WHP back and gain fuel mileage in a considerable rate. As averages are coming in from end users, we seem to be anywhere from 2-13 more MPG depending on that end users set up and driving habits. My personals average, not instant so we are taking tanks of gas, AC on - in my 08 Rubi on 33/4.10’s with the hard top on all the time is 12-14 around town and 15-18 highway at 70mph. The variables are weight in truck hills, traffic and average speed… with the charger its all to easy to pass and drive in the right lane.
By comparison the JK now on 37’s gets 14-15 around town and 16-20 highway at 65mph and 2k RPM… he’s a lot more conditioned than I am. One user is getting 10mpg cruising at 80mph and through the hills of Cali into LA… there’s only so much the SC can do.
I don't feel I'm in the position to answer the HEMI swap question, however from clients we've spoken to, they've said- cons are inspection with OBD2 port is not compliant, weight with respect to spring rate needs to be address's and some have mentioned the HP per Dollar left a bit to be desired.
Yeah the Stage 2 install is time consuming but not
difficult at all.
No special tools needed.
No chopping any wires everything is plug and play
First time install should take about 8-9 hours
No special tools needed.
No chopping any wires everything is plug and play
First time install should take about 8-9 hours
We have 400 GEN1 kits (no longer available, but
still being sold used by end users moving on) and 600 GEN2 kits... We pride
ourselves on both customer service and quality product.